Mongolia goes into party mode come July. Everyone gears up for the biggest annual show on Chinggis Khaan's land: NAADAM!!!!
The biggest of them all is of course the Ulaanbaatar city Naadam from the 11th to the 13th of July. It is held at the National Stadium, Olympic Street cor. Chinggis Avenue.
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| Ulaanbaatar Naadam Opening Ceremony, July 11, 2013, 11:00AM, National Stadium |
All aimags, cities and sums hold their own version of the festival of the 'three manly games' - Naadam.
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| Tuv aimag Naadam, Zuun Mod, July 28, 2013, Central Stadium |
The 'three manly games' as they are known are wrestling, horse racing, and archery. In 2001, knucklebone shooting was added to the games.
Don't worry about the word 'manly.' Women compete in archery and young girls ride as jockeys in the horse races. Most of the action happen at the National Stadium but the horse races are held at Khui Doloon Khudag, a good 40 kilometers from Ulaanbaatar proper.
Mongolian wrestling is, however, only reserved for men. According to Jack Weatherford, writing for Lapham's Quarterly, during Khubilai Khaan's time, one of his cousins, Princess Khutulun-- who was born sometime in 1260 and who grew up with 14 brothers, and who happened to be the great-great granddaughter of Chinggis Khaan, -- competed in wrestling and decimated all her opponents.
From that time on, wrestling became a sport for men only, and wrestlers have to wear tight, open-fronted, long-sleeved jackets that show their manly chests. And when wrestlers dance in victory, with their arms up high, bare chests exposed, showing their maleness, they are actually paying homage to the wrestling princess that no man could outwrestle.
This year, the 'last man standing' Gunaajav Erkhembayar of Mandal sum, Selenge aimag, received the State Giant accolade.
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| Wrestlers everywhere! |
As for archery, men, women and children compete for honors. Ethnic Uriankhai, Buriad and Khalkh competitions are held before the nationals. The State Archery Tournament follows Khalkh regulations. Participants are dressed smartly in their colorful deels, impressive-looking bows and arrows by their side.
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| The targets |
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| Lady archers |
Knucklebone shooting is held at the shooting field next to the Central Stadium. This game traces its origin to a 13th century game played by high society men. Participants also attire themselves in radiant deels.
The horse races are held in the wide open spaces of Khui Doloon Khudag, where the air is perfumed with the scent of wild oregano and horse sweat. Where the skies are bluer than blue. Where spectators are in carnival mode. No betting allowed, but, you can drink as much airag--fermented mare's milk-- as your stomach can take.
There are many sideshows during Naadam. One of the most colorful is the Deeltei Mongol Naadam or Mongol in Deel, the traditional dress festival held on the 13th of July at Sukhbataar Square, in the center of the city. It's a giant photo op.
So, if you missed this year's Naadam, you've got next year to look forward to.
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