Mongolian Naadam - Ulaanbaatar City, July 11-13, 2013

Mongolia goes into party mode come July. Everyone gears up for the biggest annual show on Chinggis Khaan's land: NAADAM!!!! 

The biggest of them all is of course the Ulaanbaatar city Naadam from the 11th to the 13th of July. It is held at the National Stadium, Olympic Street cor. Chinggis Avenue. 

Ulaanbaatar Naadam Opening Ceremony, July 11, 2013, 11:00AM, National Stadium 

All aimags, cities and sums hold their own version of the festival of the 'three manly games' - Naadam. 

Tuv aimag Naadam, Zuun Mod, July 28, 2013, Central Stadium 

The 'three manly games' as they are known are wrestling, horse racing, and archery. In 2001, knucklebone shooting was added to the games. 

Don't worry about the word 'manly.' Women compete in archery and young girls ride as jockeys in the horse races. Most of the action happen at the National Stadium but the horse races are held at Khui Doloon Khudag, a good 40 kilometers from Ulaanbaatar proper. 

Mongolian wrestling is, however, only reserved for men. According to Jack Weatherford, writing for Lapham's Quarterly, during Khubilai Khaan's time, one of his cousins, Princess Khutulun-- who was born sometime in 1260 and who grew up with 14 brothers, and who happened to be the great-great granddaughter of Chinggis Khaan, -- competed in wrestling and decimated all her opponents. 

From that time on, wrestling became a sport for men only, and wrestlers have to wear tight, open-fronted, long-sleeved jackets that show their manly chests. And when wrestlers dance in victory, with their arms up high, bare chests exposed, showing their maleness, they are actually paying homage to the wrestling princess that no man could outwrestle. 

This year, the 'last man standing' Gunaajav Erkhembayar of Mandal sum, Selenge aimag, received the State Giant accolade. 

Wrestlers everywhere!

As for archery, men, women and children compete for honors. Ethnic Uriankhai, Buriad and Khalkh competitions are held before the nationals. The State Archery Tournament follows Khalkh regulations. Participants are dressed smartly in their colorful deels, impressive-looking bows and arrows by their side. 

The targets

Lady archers

Knucklebone shooting is held at the shooting field next to the Central Stadium. This game traces its origin to a 13th century game played by high society men. Participants also attire themselves in radiant deels. 

The horse races are held in the wide open spaces of Khui Doloon Khudag, where the air is perfumed with the scent of wild oregano and horse sweat. Where the skies are bluer than blue. Where spectators are in carnival mode. No betting allowed, but, you can drink as much airag--fermented mare's milk-- as your stomach can take. 

There are many sideshows during Naadam. One of the most colorful is the Deeltei Mongol Naadam or Mongol in Deel, the traditional dress festival held on the 13th of July at Sukhbataar Square, in the center of the city. It's a giant photo op. 

So, if you missed this year's Naadam, you've got next year to look forward to. 

Caixan naadaarai!!!

Mile With Smile Help Taxi and Mongolia Tour Company: Public Service Like No Other

Mile With Smile 
Help Taxi and Mongolia Tour Company:

Public Service Like No Other

Sukhee, the most sought-after guy in town

This is the code that Myagmarsukh or Sukhee and his fleet of drivers go by. Come hailstorm, snowstorm, fog and smoky conditions, neither icy roads nor time can stop this dedicated and hardworking group of Mongols from delivering their services to their clientele from here and abroad.

Commencing in May 2011, with Sukhee himself and one other driver, Erdenetsogt, the Mile With Smile Help Taxi and Mongolia Tour Company has exceeded all expectations. Now he has ten drivers on call. 

Erdenetsogt, Terelj National Park

To improve their skills in the English language, a very important factor in attracting and maintaining a clientele that is composed mostly of English-speaking expatriates, Sukhee has organized English language lessons for everyone.  

Running the most popular taxi company in the city of Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia, Sukhee – a 2009 graduate from the School of Tourism – logs in more than 150 calls a day, for taxi pick-ups, city/shopping or business, or discovery tours. One sees him most times with a mobile phone on each hand, ready to take calls and answer text messages.

The company cars, Help Taxi, are a familiar sight in all embassy grounds, at school parking areas of the International School of Ulaanbaatar, British School of Ulaanbaatar, American School, Erel and others; at posh cafés, bars, and restaurants; at hotels, banks, clinics/hospitals, markets/supermarkets, national parks and of course, at the Chinggis Khaan International Airport.

Sukhee’s incredible success stems from the fact that he and his drivers and tour guides go the extra mile for anybody under their care. I am talking from first-hand experience. Sukhee arranges all my travels such as touring around Mongolia, school runs and shopping pick-ups. He will be with you on the phone updating you on the status or whereabouts of his drivers, while you are waiting to be picked-up. He texts you the plate number of the car that is at your disposal. The drivers are always ready with their warm smiles.

Last summer, when my daughter Ysabelle and I visited the famed Khuvsgol lake area in the north of Mongolia, Sukhee facilitated our travel needs, airline tickets, resort/guesthouse reservations, transport and all, including having Suvd to accompany us all around, as tour guide/interpreter. Suvd, a Senior at the Mongolian International University, is one of the best tour guides you may encounter. She coordinated with guesthouse owners and checked on facilities and food.

When we picked up a touring couple that did not have reservations for accommodations, Suvd kindly contacted the guesthouse where we were headed to, to notify them about additional guests. At night, Suvd would sit up and feed the fire with wood, to keep everybody warm. She hardly slept. She also arranged our horse rides and visits to local families including the Tsaatan.

Suvd holding the reins; on our way to visit the Tsaatan

Ysabelle and I at Toilogt Camp, Khuvsgol

Milking the yak assisted by Suvd, Khuvsgol 

Suvd, Ysabelle and Yak, Khuvsgol

Suvd and Ysabelle inside our teepee, Toilogt Camp, Khuvsgol

Ysabelle, Suvd and me, back in Ulaanbaatar, after a gorgeous stay in Khuvsgol,
northern Mongolia

With me clamouring for Naadam Festival tickets, the biggest summer event in Mongolia, Sukhee queued up outside City Hall until three o’clock in the morning, just to be able to get hold of two tickets for me. I felt so sorry for him when I found out, but that is Sukhee. Special service served up on a gold tray.

Most recently, they collaborated with Hong Kong businessmen who did bank-to-bank visits, but their most challenging job, so far, was transporting delegates to the Germany-Mongolia Corporate Days around the city to various meeting venues such as the Blue Sky Hotel, Edelweiss Hotel and different government ministries. In all their dealings with customers, Mile With Smile Help Taxi and Mongolia Tour Company always make it a point to be on time for pick-ups, quite a daunting task considering the infamous UB traffic jams.

After almost two years in public service, Sukhee finally found time on Sunday, the 23^rd of December 2012, to gather everybody to celebrate the fruits of their hard work. Everyone came to dinner dressed smartly. I felt honoured to be part of the Mile With Smile Help Taxi and Mongolia Tour Company dinner party. I could feel the warm camaraderie and close kinship between Sukhee and his group. This kinship was also extended to me. I strongly felt I was with my family.

A million thanks to Sukhee and to everybody at Mile With Smile Help Taxi and Mongolia Tour Company.

Contact details:

Website: www.helptaxi3.com

Quick contact: Sukhee at +976-99652371

Here are some photographs from my travels, organized by Sukhee. Just a phone call away.

A visit to the bee farm in Terelj, with Erdenetsogt, me and Bruce Conkle,
a visiting American artist who was chosen to attend the prestigious Land Art Mongolia 360

That's me in Tsonjin Boldog

Manzuchir khiid ruins in summer, Tuv aimag

A view to the River Tuul in autumn, Erdene soum

Checking out the remnants of the Russian past, just outside UB, on our way to Tsonjin Boldog

On one of my numerous sojourns to Gandan monastery grounds, Ulaanbaatar

Gandan monastery pigeons

Blazing sunset behind Terelj Hotel, Terelj National Park in winter